An artist's path III.

 

On our previous walk, through Dukes Meadows we returned to the Thames. Crossing the river is Barnes, with the "Leg O Mutton reservoir" almost in front of us, and the WWT London Wetland Centre a little further inland. Those are two good places for waterbird watching. And also for painting and photography. The Society of Wildlife Artists holds annual exhibitions at the Mall Galleries, and any artist interested in depicting the natural world -birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians, fish, crustaceans or insects in their environment- can apply. I am passionate about water birds in their habitat, and I have got some acrylic paintings in my art collection. 

Japanese cranes in a snowy landscape (2004). Acrylic painting on canvas.

Pelicans by the sea (2003). Acrylic painting on canvas.

The Leg O Mutton was built by Thames Water in 1838, for the local water supply. It was in use until 1960. Today it is a Nature Reserve 800 m long and 100 m wide where many birds live, both on the rafts and in the trees.

Leg O Mutton Nature Reserve.

Aerial view of the London Wetland Centre.

We are on one of the most pleasant stretches of the Thames for walking. Throughout the stroll we will be able to listen to the birds and other relaxing sounds that nature offers us. The brown colour of the river water is due to the natural mud from estuary, not pollution. Now the stench of water is history. In the past, many diseases and epidemics were the result of wastewater dumped into the river. But the tidal Thames is now one of the cleanest city rivers in Europe. They have stopped much of the pollution that used to enter the river. Over 118 species of fish and other wildlife now lives in the Thames. Sea bass, flounder, dace, brown shrimp, perch, starfish, smelt, grey mullet salmon and shore crab are common in these waters.

There are a number of bird species that can be observed in this area of the Thames, Canada goose, mute swan, grey heron, teal, pied wagtail, grey wagtail, black headed gull, herring gullgrey crested grebe, tufted duck, cormorant, mallard duck and egyptian goose among others. To our left is Corney Reach and the Chiswick Pier. In the past, numerous warehouses formed part of the landscape along the wharf, and towards St Nicholas Church. Chiswick Products LTD used to store their wax near here. In October 1940 a German bomb destroyed the warehouse, and the molten wax flowed across the surface of the Thames causing spectacular flames. Following the road to our left we can return to Hammersmith Bridge, but we continue to the right, on our way to Kew, Richmond and Twickenham looking for inspiration.

Chiswick Pier at Corney Reach. View from Dukes Meadows Park.

Dukes Meadows on the Boat Race morning.

The Thames has attracted artists since Tudor times. In the past, monarchs, aristocrats and wealthy merchants built stylish mansions with gardens in the countryside, on the banks of the Thames, hired landscape artists to improve the natural environment around their houses, and used the river as a way to travel, sometimes together with musicians. By the mid-eighteenth century the banks of the Thames were lined with elegant residences in garden settings. The mansions along the river, many of which have since disappeared, were portrayed in the form of a panoramic engraving in Samuel Leigh's Panorama of the Thames from London to Richmond, published circa 1830.

Panorama of the Thames.

View of the Thames from Dukes Meadows.

We continue along the river bank via the Dukes Meadows Bandstand, towards Barnes Bridge. On the opposite bank is Mortlake. We arrive at Chiswick Bridge and continue the inner path towards Kew Bridge. Upstream, around the meander of the river, is Strand-on-the-Green. Just before the bridge we pass through this picturesque riverside area, described in 1932 as 'London's last remaining village'. Strand-on-the-Green grew up as a small fishing settlement along the river bank. From the end of the 18th century, large houses were built, and small industries were established: malt houses, boat repair yards and barge builders. The German-born portrait painter Johann Zoffany (1733-1810) lived at 65 Strand-on-the-Green.

Zoffany's house at 65 Strand-on-the-Green.

The Thames tides sometimes flood this area, temporarily preventing passage. This is why most of the houses here had entrances both on the river and from the back lane, Thames Road. At the time of the Romans the tide reached only as far upstream as London Bridge, and at the end of the 18th century the Thames was tidal only as far as Richmond and Twickenham. Kew Bridge was opened in 1759. Prior to that, the only way to cross the Thames was by ferry.

The Thames from Strand-on-the-Green. If it were not for the

sailing boat, this photograph would seem to be in black and white.

Among the artists who painted in Kew was Camille Pissarro, who visited the village in 1892. The scenes he painted of Kew are now in private hands. Crossing Kew Bridge we arrive at Kew Green, at the end of which we find Saint Anne's Parish Church. Several artists are buried here, the most important being Thomas Gainsborough (1727-1788), who painted some of his best artworks in this village. Also his friend, Joshua Kirby, as well as the already mentioned Johan Zoffany. Joshua Kirby was tutor in perspective to the Prince of Wales, future George III. Kirby published a popular treatise on perspective, Dr Brook Taylor's Method of Perspective (1757), with illustrations by William Hogarth, some of which still appear today in perspective textbooks.

Saint Anne's Parish Church.

Thomas Gainsborough's grave in Saint Anne's.

Gravestone of Thomas Gainsborough's grave.

The Original Maids of Honour.

Nearby are the Royal Botanic Gardens. After enjoying a cup of tea and cake at The Original Maids of Honour, a former tea room established in 1850 opposite Kew Gardens, we continue our journey around the Botanic Gardens and along the Thames trail. We pass in front of Syon Park and House. There, the Northumberlands hired the services of Capability Brown, who altered the surrounding landscape by adding lakes and gardens. The sumptuous stone mansion is much older, dating from the 16th century, although it was remodelled by Robert Adam in the 18th century. The Great Conservatory dates from the 19th century.

In Tudor times there was a large community of monks here, the so-called Syon Abbey, from which the present house is named. The great palace of the Tudor dynasty was in Richmond, on the other side of the Thames, and there were close ties between the abbey and Henry VIII. However, as a result of the break with Rome and the determined orthodoxy of the Syon monks, Henry VIII ordered one of the priests, Richard Reynolds, to be executed for treason and dissolved the religious community. When the abbey was dissolved, Syon passed to Edward Seymour, Duke of Somerset, who began to transform the Abbey into a large private house. It was here that Henry VIII's funeral procession rested on its journey to Windsor. At the end of the 16th century Syon passed by marriage to the 9th Earl of Northumberland, Henry Percy, who in 1605 was involved in the Gunpowder Plot. The Earl was confined to the Tower of London for seventeen years. Today, Syon House remains the residence of the Northumberlands.

Another historical episode in this family was that of Lord Guildford Dudley, the son of John Dudley, first Duke of Northumberland, and husband of Lady Jane Grey, remembered in English history as the monarch with the shortest reign. Only 9 days. She was proclaimed queen after the death of her cousin, the Protestant King Edward VI, son of Henry VIII. Lady Jane Grey and Lord Guildford Dudley were beheaded in 1554 in the Tower of London (Guildford in Tower Hill) by Edward VI's half-sister, Mary, the Catholic daughter of Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon, and first in the line of succession to the throne.

View of Syon House from the shore of Kew Gardens.

Just 2 miles away from Syon House is Osterley Park, where the City bankers Francis and Robert Child built a Palladian villa which they also commissioned from Robert Adam. Osterley estate is easy accessible by underground. The Picadilly line westbound towards Heathrow airport has a station with the same name.

View of one of the lakes in Osterley Park.

We continue the path next to Old Deer Park, and soon reach Richmond. This is where Virginia Woolf lived with her husband Leonard between 1914 and 1924. Other great writers who spent time at Richmond were George Eliot (Mary Ann Evans) and Charles Dickens. "If it is a choice between Richmond and death, I choose death," Virginia Woolf once said. However, Richmond is today one of the most attractive and pleasant places in London.

View of the Thames from Richmond Bridge.